gauge problem

[Gavin]

Hey all having problems with temp and fuel gauge, on getting the car rev counter wad sticking but everything else worked took the cluster apart to check for broken solder resistors etc nothing untoward found. Put the lot back together rev counter working again fine looks like a screw wasn't tight enough from prev owner taking the cluster apart but now temp gauge always reads max so does fuel gauge when ignition is turned on checked all fuses non have blown also traced the wires back on the printed membrane nothing broken or loose there.

Bit stumped on this the 3 screws behind each of these gauges are tight been told these pass power only so don't need adjustment they where working prev to this.

[obiwanwasabe]

Did you disturb the earth to the Voltage regulator?

[Gavin]

Which one is this? May of unsure which it is

[obiwanwasabe]

I have been looking at the wiring dia, it doesn't seem to show one but gauges usually work off one to keep them reasonably accurate, if they work off car voltage, 12.6 v or about 13.8v when they are running they cannot be accurate with this so they either resist them down to usually 10.5v or put in a voltage regulator.

[Gavin]

I don't think I've seen one? But this is the back of the cluster only thing I have touched

[obiwanwasabe]

I can send you the wiring diagrams in english on pdf if you message me your email.

[maiku]

I had issue with the gauges not moving and I just needed to lube the needles a bit
Haven't had an issue in over a year

[Steve_M]

What happens to either of the gauges when you remove the indicated screws and make sure the membrane is not connected?

[Steve_M]

With a Multimeter, what voltage have you got on the yellow wire, here?

[Gavin]

I had issue with the gauges not moving and I just needed to lube the needles a bit
Haven't had an issue in over a year

My Fuel and Temp gauge just move from min to max, needles are fine checked those bit stumped

What happens to either of the gauges when you remove the indicated screws and make sure the membrane is not connected?

will need to have a fiddle again tomorrow when it's dry but pretty sure they had an effect of dropping the temp gauge down and making the fuel gauge stop rising

With a Multimeter, what voltage have you got on the yellow wire, here?

This I will need to get a friend to help with

[Gavin]

Right removed those 2 screws Steve the one for the fuel gauge if totally removed will stop the needle from going up so if you set it at the bottom with screw in and it gets to half by time you take it out it will stop there, the one for the temp gauge will basically make the needle drop to the bottom once partially out and once fully out its at the bottom, not had chance to get it round mates with multimeter to test the wire

[Steve_M]

That sounds as if both the signal wires for those 2 gauges have gone to earth. I would next go to the tank sender unit connector (on top of fuel tank) and disconnect that (should get the same result as removing that screw) and to the temp sensor (single wire) on the engine water elbow and again with disconnected should drop gauge to zero.

If no reaction on gauges when sensors disconnect then wires have gone to earth somewhere between gauge and sensor (Probably at the same place for both wires, harness trapped etc)

[Steve_M]

Fuel sensor


Temp sensor

[Gavin]

Just to update since the last beat box came on Wednesday got a spare set of dials to try, I can confirm my issues was a variety of things.

Pulled the plugs off as Steve described above and it was 100% earthing on something on what I don't know but changed the fuel/coolant and warning light section of the cluster to the new one still doing the same so changed the chassis to dials mini loom started the car up fuel went up to max and coolant slowly crept up as engine warmed up but didn't go any higher between 1/3 and 1/2

Chucked the other dials in to double check and the fuel and temp gauge is goosed on that one so I think partially down to dodgy old dials and old loom that may have worn in a few places, so happy it works again

[Gavin]

This is how the gauges sit now



The car hasn't been driven but left to idle for 20min, temp gauge doesn't see to go further but do get a nice amount of warm air coming through, before being parked up to be painted etc had driven the car around 25 miles after putting around £20 in (didn't put any more as it started splashing out a bit) so unsure if the fuel gauge is reading right for a properly brimmed tank if anyone can confirm?

[steveinjapan]

This is how the gauges sit now



The car hasn't been driven but left to idle for 20min, temp gauge doesn't see to go further but do get a nice amount of warm air coming through, before being parked up to be painted etc had driven the car around 25 miles after putting around £20 in (didn't put any more as it started splashing out a bit) so unsure if the fuel gauge is reading right for a properly brimmed tank if anyone can confirm?

Most car gauges are pretty inaccurate so yours are not so bad off. My fuel gauge reads 7/8 full when topped off and the temperature gauge stays exactly halfway no matter how hard I drive or what the air temperature is. Once warmed up, fluctuating temperature could indicate a problem.

[Gavin]

Yeah Steve main thing is the speedo and rev counter still work ok the fuel gauge I can just about cope with guessing if it is actually working, got a proper coolant gauge on way with some other bits at least then I'll know the exact temp.

Just wondering if the fuel gauge ever over reads like mine when its been slightly over filled

[steveinjapan]

[QUOTE=Just wondering if the fuel gauge ever over reads like mine when its been slightly over filled[/QUOTE]


Yeah, what I'm sayin' is that it's just as likely to over-read as under-read like mine. Regardless of all the electronics, the sensor in the tank probably uses 1930's technology.

You should run it empty and note what it reads then for future reference