Results 1 to 17 of 17

Thread: Changing soft top solo...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349

    Changing soft top solo...

    Has anyone attempted to change the soft top by themselfs? (as opposed to getting a professional to do it)

    I'm getting my car re-sprayed this week, and I figured now would be a good time to do the top as well.

    I found this one for $350 in USA

    http://www.cartopsplus.com/index.php...9ejaom4z2i4y84

    What material should I use? I see there is Haartz Pinpoint Vinyl and also Stayfast Cloth. What looks better/is lowest maintenance?

    Anyone buy from this company before?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Kent
    Posts
    1,500
    Fitted a new roof fabric is a lot of removing screws, drilling out rivets and threading the tensioning wire through.
    It's nothing major, but it is quite time consuming.
    Steve M
    __________________

    Its all gone Norfolk!!!
    Now in the Lotus position.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349
    Thanks steve. I've got 3 kids under 3...I doubt I'd have time to do it.

    I got a quote today for $1500...JUST for the labor. He wanted $1000 for the top extra to the labour...so $2500 total! I told him I could buy the top for $400, but I can't afford that labour price.

    I've heard the number 6 hours to do the beat top, that at $100/hr would be about $600+400 (with glass rear window) would be a $1000 job. I can afford that...but not $2500.

    Just curious what others have paid for the top replacement labour?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pye Green/72800 France
    Posts
    584
    around £400 for Robbins Mohair top from US via ETC in UK.
    paid £240 for fitting, arrived 9.00am, left around 4.00pm but not all that time was spent on mine, phone calls etc.
    this also included the part fitting of first faulty hood so total probably worth 1.5 hoods?

  5. #5
    barney Guest
    Supply and fit was £260 in Swansea. Fantastic job.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    216
    uncle... suggest you look at you top assy and consider doing it yourself. It not very difficult. I did mine a few years back in a few hrs with no special tools. Worst case is that you contact a local expert to assist you at your location for 30% cash.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349
    Quote Originally Posted by marcair View Post
    uncle... suggest you look at you top assy and consider doing it yourself. It not very difficult. I did mine a few years back in a few hrs with no special tools. Worst case is that you contact a local expert to assist you at your location for 30% cash.
    Cool. Thanks guys. I'm thinking my guys are "el-rio-off'o" at $1500 labour.

    Marcair, is it pretty self explanatory or are instructions required?

    Did you go for a vinyl or stay-fast cloth?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    216
    I bought the vinyl as I raise the top maybe 3 times a year. If it looks like rain, I drive something else. I took the new top and window assys to my upholstery guy for comment before starting. Nothing fancy otherthan to mark the front header and a few other points prior to disassembly to ensure correct alignment during re-assembly. I found old pics of the rear area but not of the header area. The top assy can be removed and on the bench in 15-20 minutes. The whole job can be accomplished during a boring football game.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by marcair; 19-10-2012 at 09:44 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    216
    i have been considering removing my top assy (rarely use), upper engine covers and rear deck lid and installing a custom rear-hinged lid similar to the Pontiac shown. I would remove the upper lateral brace separating the engine compartment from the trunk area and fabricate a combination lateral brace/strut support tressle. This would be fantastic for maintenance and car shows. Maybe this winter
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Solstice_2_.jpg 
Views:	209 
Size:	67.1 KB 
ID:	2153  
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Kent
    Posts
    1,500
    There's no need to remove the softtop frame from the actual car, just follow the information in the shop manual about removing the softtop window edge seals and metal holders and then the softtop cover. As I say it's mainly drilling out rivets and feeding the tensioning wire through. It's not rocket science. ;o)
    Steve M
    __________________

    Its all gone Norfolk!!!
    Now in the Lotus position.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Swindon
    Posts
    78
    Simple enough to do, just need a bit of welding wire to feed the tension wire through. Took about 2.5 hours. Just don't rush it. Remember it the reverse to taking it off.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
    Simple enough to do, just need a bit of welding wire to feed the tension wire through. Took about 2.5 hours. Just don't rush it. Remember it the reverse to taking it off.
    Thanks guys. I've found a guy to do it for a few hundred bucks. I can afford that. Much better than the $1500 labour quote.

    Question, is there a "wrong" way to install the top?

    The guy has only ever done one top on a Chrysler Sebring (POS) with an Electric top. So he has experience, or at least on one.

    Do the tops come with new rivets and cable?

    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Anyone got photos of the "stayfast cloth" tops vs the vinyl?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pye Green/72800 France
    Posts
    584
    don't know about 'wrong way' but take notes & pics of each stripdown stage, easier to refer to in times of doubt.
    from the small amount i saw my installer working from memory, when gluing the front section he held the front edge away from screen with blocks of wood, 12mm ? so that when dried & trim piece screwed on there would be tension in the cloth.
    i was also told if possible to leave roof up for a few days for it to stretch naturally, no too great a problem in the UK

    cable wasn't supplied with the Robbins kit neither were rivets, however i did replace the poppers with new ones.
    Last edited by old'uns; 21-10-2012 at 09:26 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349
    Looks like I'll be going with the Robins Top.

    Here is an exerpt from a S2000 forum...

    If you're going to DIY, I suggest Robbins because the mounting holes are already pre-cut for you. On the EZ-On, it's a bit more of a pain because the mounting points are just marked and you have to drill/punch them out yourself. It saves you quite a bit of time to go with Robbins. They fit the same as long as you do it properly so it's up to you to justify the cost difference between the two brands. Both brands use the same manufacturer of material (Haartz), they just cut and stitch it themselves.

    Good to know.

    I'm going to go with the Robins...just have to find the best price. And I'll go with the Stayfast. I've heard it looks great and is a real dark black.

    So if the kit does not come with the rivets and cables, are they special rivets and cables? I'm assuming I can probably order them from the same place that sells the tops?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Kent
    Posts
    1,500
    Chapter 14 of the Shop Manual is your key. pages 14-26 to 14-32

    Chapter_14.pdf

    Part number for rivets is :

    90116-SS1-003 - These hold the seal retaining strip on to the frame.
    ( 4 each side- shown on 14-29- look like 4mm pop rivet - not sure on lenght but prob about 10mm)

    Tensioning cable is just swapped over to the new roof.
    Steve M
    __________________

    Its all gone Norfolk!!!
    Now in the Lotus position.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    349
    Thanks Steve, appreciate it as always.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Swindon
    Posts
    34
    Hi Barney do you have the name of the hood supplier you used in Swansea please?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •