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Thread: Beat not starting

  1. #21
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    Your not going to get an Airlock in a high presure fuel system.

    More likely it has damaged the pump.

    Yout need to determine is it fuel or spark the reason why it wont start. ie fuel pressure check.
    Steve M
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  2. #22
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    If the car will bump start with no problems its possible that the starter load is causing a voltage drop which is preventing something operating correctly. Does the starter spin at a normal speed or slowly? Try attaching a voltmeter to the battery terminals, NOT the wires attached to them. What does it fall to when the starter is operated? Make sure the battery connections are good, a dirty connection will cause a voltage drop. Check the battery earth to body connection and the engine earth (both ends). Battery negative to engine block should read zero volts with starter running.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Thanks again for the diagnosing help guys

    Today, first thing I will check for is spark! (Wires/Plugs). I'll need to get to the garage to get the pressure test done!

    (What is the correct fuel pressure reading??? )

    Lawrence, the car bump starts perfectly. Have only done it twice though.

    If the car fails to start, I will give the voltage reading a go. Have been meaning to do that.

    In my previous post, I mentioned the battery that I have. Is this the correct one for the Beat? Compared to the original? The reason I ask is, because on previous threads, members have posted that even though the ignition, lights, radio etc work. The battery didnt have enough 'ooomph' in it to engage the starter!

    The earth connection near the starter, looks pretty dirty to me (Like old). I'll be taking that off today, and cleaning it with the wire brush.

    Will report back today, with how things went.

    Ajay

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Quick update on my car.

    I placed a multimeter on the battery and when the starter was engaged, the meter read about 10v! Is this good or bad?

    Also I started my car 3 times in succession today! I did some thorough reading on 'flooding the engine.' And I use to pump the accelerator pedal, and must have flooded the engine on many occasions.

    Anyway, I keep cranking the car till it fires up! Not touching the accelerator. But as it does fire, the revs do not shoot up automatically. I have to press the accelerator to get the engine going.

    I'm looking to replace the HT leads now, and still need to check for spark.

    A quick question also, I've been using super unleaded in my car. Does the Beat have a knock sensor, or am I better off using 95 ron and NOT 97/98 ron petrol. Would attribute to the problem?

    The car also idles at about 700rpm when its just started. But after a drive of a few miles, its about 900rpm.

    I'll keep the thread updated.


  5. #25
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    Oct 2004
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    Derbyshire, Uk.
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    With regards to petrol, the beat is designed to use 100ron

  6. #26
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    Nov 2008
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    Canadian prairie
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    100ron, that's like 90 octane right? 'Cus I use 86 octane no problem here in NA. No knocks.

  7. #27
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    Running on 99 (tesco) or 98 (Super unleaded e.g. optimax/ultimate) would be the closest to the 100 ron of japanese fuel.

    You should not see any problems with running on 95 (normal unleaded) but may get better MPG with the higher 99/98 probably wont really notice performance increase thou
    Steve M
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  8. #28
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    Aug 2008
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    I pulled up to the petrol pumps on the way back to home from work.

    And after i filled up, I had problems starting again. To avoid the horns/shouting, I pushed the Beat to one side. And after some cranking it started. Although I had to depress the accelerator to get it going, which makes me to believe its the fuel delivery thats affecting start up!

    Im going to speak to the garage tomorrow and get a fuel pressure test done and check for spark as well.

    I would just like to confirm the ideal fuel pressure on the Beat.

    Is it 2.5 - 3.0 kg/cm (squared) ??

  9. #29
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    Nov 2004
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    Guernsey
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    I've tried measuring voltage on one of ours, 10v when cranking seems reasonable but as it fired almost immediately was hard to read accurately. Re reading the thread I notice the car appears to bump (push) start but not on the starter. Most of the suggestions regarding ignition, fuel etc would surely prevent starting when bumping as well. This suggests the action of powering up the starter motor is causing the problem. Could a faulty ignition switch cause a loss of power to the ecu etc when the key is turned to the start position.

  10. #30
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    Aug 2008
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    52
    Hey Lawrence

    Im going to try and post another video of what happens when it eventually starts!

    Hopefully the garage will be able to better diagnose the problem. There is a new battery, fuel filter, spark plugs and main relay on the Beat.

    I tried to clean the ground from the starter too! But i was a bit difficult to get off.

    Would the car have to be on a ramp, for me to have a better look at the starter? and see if it's spinning?

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by aj17ay View Post
    I would just like to confirm the ideal fuel pressure on the Beat.

    Is it 2.5 - 3.0 kg/cm (squared) ??
    Yes with vacuum pipe off of pressure regulator.

    Pressure check point on top of fuel tank fuel pump unit.
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    Steve M
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  12. #32
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    Aug 2008
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    Im hoping this will help the problem better.

    In this video, the car eventually starts up. This is what i experience most of the time.

    The car starts absolutely fine on a bump start though.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBlpPsMP4gQ

    I'll be getting the car fuel pressure tested this week and for spark too!

    hope this helps ...

    thanks

    ajay

  13. #33
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    Well the light is not turning off, I would try plugs leads and timing (only if you moved it) a once over on the ignition system. when plugs are out you can see if she is sparking too just dont hold the spark plug when turning the engine over. I'd say its something silly
    I have a dream

  14. #34
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    I still think you have a problem regarding the Main relay/fuel pump control.

    Poss ECU related that its not switching the main relay.

    Engine light should go out after the ignition is turned on, yours only goes out when you crank the engine.

    The fact that the ECU has had some sort of repair I still suspect that still may be an issue.
    Steve M
    __________________

    Its all gone Norfolk!!!
    Now in the Lotus position.

  15. #35
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    Aug 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_M View Post
    I still think you have a problem regarding the Main relay/fuel pump control.

    Poss ECU related that its not switching the main relay.

    Engine light should go out after the ignition is turned on, yours only goes out when you crank the engine.

    The fact that the ECU has had some sort of repair I still suspect that still may be an issue.
    Hi Steve

    I've put a BRAND NEW relay into the Beat, and it has still not cured the problem! So next, as you have suggested is the fuel pressure test!

    Thought I would mention this, before I ran the car dry of fuel and these problems started to occur, The ECU light has always acted this way!
    And it started instantly before the fuel running out problem

    After Jan 1st, I am taking it to the garage! Definatly check for spark, fuel pressure and ignition timing!

    So it doesn't sound like a starter problem????

  16. #36
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    Nov 2002
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    Out of Dublin, Ireland
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    No its not a starter problem, but I would think its something silly thou. I would doubt that its a pressure problem too.
    I have a dream

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Southampton
    Posts
    56
    having had a beat for 5 years now i have suffered hot starting issues off and on as i dont use the car that much - note it always started first time even in the middle of winter

    Anyway when the car got hot it misfired badly and if it stalled would not start again for 30 minutes - a nightmare at junctions or filling with fuel awwww:

    Recently I did find a fix that was due either to a half a pint of antifreeze added to the rear resoweir or that i kept the revs at 4000/5000 for ten minutes until the red fan cut in several times - i guess a sticky water thermostat or gummed up idle control valve ?

    either way its worth a try for you as neither cost anything - first time ever revving a car fixed a fault for me - also worth a try was to remove the fuel cap to release air .... sometimes fixed it for me
    :

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