New Clutch fitted

[mat2]

As I've just done this I thought I would post some instructions, I was going to take piccies but once you get going, stopping, cleaning your hands to take a picture is last thing you want to do. Hope this is of help I'm no mechanic and this was a big learning curve for me.

I would remove both engine access panels at this point first one is easy , second one has seat belt mount connected (17mm bolt) and the bolts for the panel are star shaped (which needs a socket with lots of sides if you know what I mean) and also air box panel and then airbox itself. I would remove them now as they give you a lot more room to get at the gearbox bolts, etc and stops you making a right mess of everything later when you realise they have to come off and your hand are covered in cv joint grease

1) Jack up car and support on stands beneath each jacking point. Remove the number plate

2) Take the rear bumper off, a screw beneath either side of wheel arch, two 10mm bolts at bottom of bumper attaching to heat shield and two bolts set into the bumper vents. Five number plastic threaded clips beneath boot lid supposed to unscrew but I broke half off them getting them out. Pull bumper slightly away and disconnect electrical connection for number plate light.

3) Heat shield two 10mm bolts at top of shield on each side and lift away.

4) Exhaust back box two spring bolts by sump of engine first, then lift of two rubber mountings

5) Rear suspension I removed 17mm bolts from first arm nearest you but forgot to note position of cam washer within the arm which adjusts camber setting worth doing to save you having to pay to have rear wheels aligned after. Then 17 mm bolt on second arm by rear wheels as they are easy to get at

6) Before removing rear cross member and engine mount I supported engine with a stand beneath sump don’t know whether it was strictly necessary but it made me feel happier. Rear cross member is removed by two 17mm bolts attaching to body on either side of member, one bolt is longer than the other so worth noting which goes where, longer bolt went in on hole nearest the front of the car on mine. Engine mount is one long 17mm bolt easily removed. The whole member can then be removed with one arm attached on each side.

7) Driveshaft rubber can then be pulled off where it attaches to gearbox if you can help it don’t destroy the metal clip round the rubber as I cant seem to buy replacements separately only as part of CV kit. Pull rubber back out of way stick your finger just inside the cv joint to feel for circlip type ring which holds cv joint in place this comes out easily with a small screw driver then pull cv joint out by gently pushing each rear wheel away from the car. I immediately put carrier bags over the ends and tied them to shaft. This stops muck getting in joint and the grease going everywhere.

8) Removing Starter motor is two electrical connections one can simply be pulled off, other is beneath black rubber cap and requires a nut to be removed then disconnected. The starter is held on by two bolts top one is short, bottom one much longer as it also holds a bracket for pipework.

9) Gear box electrical connections there is grey plug easily removed right in front of you sitting at the back of the car and also there is one for something which has two bullet connectors on right hand side of gearbox if you are sitting at the back of the car

10) Gear selector cable is a split pin at end of cable and two washers. The bracket is held on by two bolts
I just left it where it was as sits by itself nicely.

11) Clutch lever is same split pin and two washers and two long bolts as they hold bracket and clutch slave cylinder as well. I tied clutch cylinder up to stop it dropping down once gearbox was removed

12) Third bracket on top of gearbox that holds some wiring has two bolts on right hand side of gearbox

13) Gearbox bolts I think there were eight but don’t hold me to it 14mm bolts going from either side of gearbox or engine they are different lengths so well worth making a note of where they come from.
I supported gearbox on trolley jack and slowly separated it from engine it has to move away about an inch to clear two fittings which stick out from engine block then it can be lowered.

14) Clutch was easy about six small bolts hold it on and new clutch went on using a drill bit as an alignment tool which fits snug into hole behind the clutch plate then tape wrapped around the drill bit to bring it to clutch plate hole diameter. This made it an easy job to refit new clutch.

15) Release bearing is held on by a wire clip which is eased off top and bottom and new bearing put in place and clipped back on.

16) Gearbox back on is a two man job and then just refit everything you took off (Easy!!).

My gearbox also needed three bearings replaced which cost £210 inc vat to have replaced its done 150,00 kms and not had an easy life as its my daily car

I didn’t find this a difficult job you just have to take your time, use a variety of extensions bars to get at the bolts, be a touch ambidextrous and try to note where things go as you go along.

[BumbleBeat]

I just finished replacing a clutch, and this is a very good write up. A few comments:

-Don't remove any rubber off the drive shafts. Just pull the shafts out out of the transmission (firmly); the circlips will flex out of the way on their own.

-You don't have to remove the airbox. It wasn't really in my way.

-Clutch slave cylinder. When you pull that off take a good long look at the front of the cylinder. There is a short shaft held by that rubber boot that fits between the lever on the transmission and the front of the cylinder. When positioning the slave cylinder for reassembly that shaft has a tendency to come out of place under the rubber. You won't know it until you press the clutch pedal and the cylinder pops out of the casting, pushing hydraulic fluid out the front of the cylinder, ugh. Mounting the slave cylinder was the only frustrating part of the project for me. (Plus the plastic bumper fasters, what a terrible design those things are!)

I was able to do the whole thing by myself including placing the transmission. Maybe the beer gave me extra strength.!

Again, very good write up @mat2.