Starts, drives but no acceleration - check engine on

[ngbeat]

Hi all,
I'm new to this forum and new to Beat family .. found one which was stored for a couple of years.

Now I managed to start it up and drive it, but when I step on the throttle, on neutral, the car revs up but has a small hesitation but when trying to accelerate while driving, the engine noise increases but the car barely moves.

Unfortunately the cluster dials don't work however the check engine light is always on.

I tried to follow this procedure: http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/troubleshooting.htm .. but I'm getting no blinking.
Also did the ECU reset, but the engine light is still on.

Can anyone suggest on how to tackle this?

(On a side note, before starting it, I poured oil in the cylinders, and now the exhaust is filled with oil :o :eek: )

[4Aaron GE]

What codes are you getting from the light?

[ngbeat]

What codes are you getting from the light?

I jumped the Service Check Connector terminal, but when turning the ignition switch ON, the check engine light stays on and does not blink.

[4Aaron GE]

Where are you located? Maybe someone nearby can lend you an ECU to try out.

[mikei]

as aaron said where are you maybe one of us can help you out

if engine revs but car doesnt move sounds like clutch gone or siezed depending on how long its been laid up

[ngbeat]

Hi all,

I'm located in Malta .. I'm sorry, I know it's not in UK, but I guess I'm lucky if there are 5 running around here .. and I don't the owners :confused:

Today I got some help and 'the not accelerating' part got fixed. It was a corroded injector plug.
I also managed to fix all cluster gauges but not the rev meter. I noticed that when tapped on, the rev needle jumps and that there are two rusted screws at the back. Also the front screws of the rev meter are rusted :awwww:

The check engine light is still on, and still no blinking when shorting the Service Check Connector.
Tried to pull out plugs of the MAP sensor and/or O2 sensor to get some blinking, but still nothing. :mad:

[4Aaron GE]

Be careful if removing the tach. The current cluster in my car is made from 3 different clusters. The seal at the top of the housing eventually becomes brittle and crumbles apart; moisture gets in and starts corroding things. The screws on the back can sometimes get rusted into the terminals on the tach unit itself, and they'll break when you try to get it off. Some good penetrating fluid with one of those straws works wonders there.

Check your connections to the ignition coil. I've heard that a corroded connector somewhere in that system can cause tach issues as well.

[ngbeat]

Be careful if removing the tach. The current cluster in my car is made from 3 different clusters. The seal at the top of the housing eventually becomes brittle and crumbles apart; moisture gets in and starts corroding things. The screws on the back can sometimes get rusted into the terminals on the tach unit itself, and they'll break when you try to get it off. Some good penetrating fluid with one of those straws works wonders there.

Check your connections to the ignition coil. I've heard that a corroded connector somewhere in that system can cause tach issues as well.

Thanks 4Aaron GE .. Do you know if the blue wire from the coil goes directly to the rpm gauge? There is no continuity on mine.
Using a test-lamp I check signal at the coil, at it shows that there is .. but no signal at the blue wire at the cluster plug :/

Also, is there any other way to perform diagnosis ?

[4Aaron GE]

Not sure. There's a wiring diagram for the car here (http://www.hondabeat.com.au/).

[ngbeat]

thanks mate :)