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hardath14
10-04-2016, 01:54 AM
Ok i need ideas because I am completely stumped.

I have replaced the dizzy and replaced capacitors on the PCM and thus far the car works the best thus far. It takes alot of cranking to get started, would have a very low idle for a few seconds before the IACV takes over. Sometimes it would not start and I would have to wait and try another day.

I switched the PCM, getting a lighter crank but it does not start. I do get check engine codes with this "new" PCM. I switched back to the PCM with the steady check engine light and would be difficult but start at least.

What I have done.
Engine was rebuilt, meticulously checked the timing between the block and head and the dizzy, used a timing light
Replaced dizzy
Repaired PCM - CEL remains on constantly, no flash codes with jumper etc.
Second PCM does not seem to start car, cranking sounds different. There is fuel and spark.
Checked the MAP sensor, checks out perfectly according to all tests.
Only error I get on the second PCM is the O2 sensor which i need to have repaired, but this should not cause this difficult start.

I am assuming IACV or Vacuum leak? No TDC, Crank or Cam errors show up.

Please see video on youtube of how she starts on occassion.

https://youtu.be/6H4Njjzr-Fc

Please see video of it idling after having been started for a while

https://youtu.be/HA9M_VJNZmA

stu g
10-04-2016, 08:02 AM
OK, let's start with the basics. On your first video it appeared to have some problems cranking. Is your battery fully up to snuff?

Also, try a compression test. There used to be similar problems with BMW C1s and invariably it was a burned out or bent valve.

hardath14
10-04-2016, 12:59 PM
Hey Stu, thanks for the response.

I repaired the starter and would use the battery from our corolla to start the beat. Doing this I got the car to start, but still with alot of cranking. My next step is the compression test, I will post the results of this as soon as I can borrow a tester.

hardath14
26-04-2016, 08:04 PM
Hey Guys,
So I decided to spend some time and just go through absolutely everything I could on my Beat.

Essentially, I am using a replacement ECU out of Japan and the original main relay. The repaired ECU only allowed me to get to the red timing mark by physically shifting the distributor a tooth off. It would start, with great difficulty and run ok. For some reason the ECU affected the timing that allowed that offset distributor position to be the only way the car could start.

I put in the replacement ECU and reset the distributor and it started but needed more adjustment than the distributor could allow. Shifted it a tooth i the required direction and got 20 Deg BTDC immediately.

Finally after a decade of work, she is starting up like a normal car. Now to get cash to finish a few minor things to get her on the road once again.

Thanks for all the help, Can't wait to really drive her somewhere.