Fixing Engine - Need Parts

[maiku]

I'm going to have a local shop look at my piston ring issue to see if I can get the beat working (after 2 years in the garage)

I emailed Ask-Net who gave me the part numbers for a piston ring set as 13011-P36-003

but i found on the forums for piston ring set with 0.5mm oversized is 13031-P36-003
how do I know which is the right one?

and my mech suggested to replace the rod bearings while doing the piston rings, does anyone have part # for that? it's not the same as main bearings is it?

also, any part # for valve seals?
I figure do everything now while the engine is apart.

[Steve_M]

Id stick with the standard size piston rings unless your going to rebore and fit oversize pistons as well.

You will want a top end gasket set 06110-P36-000 which will get you your valve stem seals along with every gasket and seal associated with the cylinder head.

Bearings, you will need to get the numbers from your rods and crank to work out which bearings that you need. There are 7 differant sizes.

Let me know your rod/crank markings and i can tell you which part number shells you need.

HTH

[maiku]

It'll be hard to get the numbers from the rod/crank until I get it to the mech

is it really necessary to do the rod bearings?

[maiku]

Does anyone know the part number for the oil pump?

[steveinjapan]

The half put a large crease in our Mazda last night and rented a Honda Life until it's repaired. The engine looks a lot like the one in the Beat, and the car spec says it is a P07A. Anyone know if parts are interchangeable with the E07A?

[LawrenceHarding]

According to one of the Japanese auction sites the PO7A is 658cc, has different bore and stroke and only 6 valves so probably not.

[maiku]

Just a quick update

The engine is now back at my mechanics after going to machine shop to balancing shop to machine shop. Apparently, 3-cyl engines aren't common over here and balancing was a huge undertaking.

Oversized pistons are in and everything is very nice and ported.
Head has been worked on as well, including valves

Mechanic is going to start putting it all back together, including timing belt, water pump, oil pump, clutch, flywheel etc.
I've ordered a stainless exhaust manifold and looking at getting an HKS legal exhaust and coilover suspension with some strut tower bars. Mitsu funnels too. Other stuff on the way as well.

Hopefully it'll be all done by month end :)

[maiku]

some pics of the engine

[TADO]

wow - that looks great! which pistons and valve springs did you go for in the end? bet you cant wait til its all finished.

[maiku]

Comes from here

http://imazu-s.web.infoseek.co.jp/psioriginalparts.html

0.5mm pistons
11,500 rpm valve springs :D

even my mech says he can't wait to see when it's done

[maiku]

The engine was back together and running for a bit, until the "brand new" water pump started to leak out the weep holes like a fire hose :awwww:

had to take the engine back out and the faulty pump was replaced with a non-leaking one.

Ran into code 9 error though. Various fixed didn't seem to help so a new distributor is on it's way. In the meantime, it runs and no longer blows smokes :D

Just have to drain the bad gas and go through emissions.
Distributor will be replaced when it comes in with the new dash parts and hard top

[Obsessive]

The engine was back together and running for a bit, until the "brand new" water pump started to leak out the weep holes like a fire hose :awwww:

had to take the engine back out and the faulty pump was replaced with a non-leaking one.

Ran into code 9 error though. Various fixed didn't seem to help so a new distributor is on it's way. In the meantime, it runs and no longer blows smokes :D

Just have to drain the bad gas and go through emissions.
Distributor will be replaced when it comes in with the new dash parts and hard top

Nice job,

Regarding your "code 9" I had a similar issue. This post is the one that solved mine:

http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=3234

Good luck

[maiku]

My mechanic tried your fix, but it just resulted in timing issues and stalling.

He took the distributor out and found the sensor was made of rust :awwww:

A new one is probably a better idea.

It runs fine, just has a code 9.

[TADO]

very nice! the interior looks amazing - cant wait to see it all come together. congrats on the hard top too!

[Gavin]

awesome 11,500 rpm sounds tasty :D

[Obsessive]

My mechanic tried your fix, but it just resulted in timing issues and stalling.

He took the distributor out and found the sensor was made of rust :awwww:

A new one is probably a better idea.

It runs fine, just has a code 9.

Hope the new Dizzy solves it the Code 9 for you. I found it very frustrating as the car was running well too.

Looks like you're going to have a very tidy Beat when it's all back together. I too will be looking forwards to seeing the photos.

[maiku]

It'll only be 10,000 rpm as limited by the chip (probably a good idea)

Exhaust is on now, and the engine is running! No smoke!
Engine needs to break in before going to emissions, so coilovers and rims are being put in.

I also managed to get calipers from an EP3 civic, so we'll see if I can upgrade to 10.2" disks

also need to decide what colour to paint the hard top

[maiku]

The beat passed emissions with flying colours after a new cat was put in.

Front civic calipers fit, but needed to be ground down as the rotor was catching on it. Beat stops super strong now with the vented discs instead of the poor solid ones.
Rear calipers fit as well, but there's an issue with the handbrake cable so that's something to do later. :awwww:

The chip is being put in next week, so the engine isn't as running as smooth as it should. Pinging quite a bit, even on the highest octane.

new distributor was put in and seemed to fix the code. the old one had a chipped tooth.

Can't take the car too high right now as it's still being broken in, but even at 5000rpm it's quite fun.

[maiku]

Beat is done!
At least the engine part of it is.

Put in a new ECU chip that I got from japhoo auction.
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b116484953

I got the 10,000 rpm model.

Mech had to back off the timing, even after putting in the chip. This is even running on the highest octane we have here. Gets a bit of pinging in the low 2500 rpm. It sounds a lot better in the high 5k rpm. It revs into the red with no problem. I haven't tried to push it any further than 10K. Still a bit scared to blow it up.


Also managed to fit some EP3 civic brackets on the rear brakes. They extend the caliper further out so I can fit the larger 10.2" discs. Tried the whole civic caliper, but ran into handbrake issues.

The rest of the interior/exterior parts are coming by boat in a month's time.

[Gavin]

sounds good!

you guys only run 93 octane over in canada don't you? over here in the uk the normal stuff is 95 and the supers vary from 97-99

[maiku]

Ratings are a bit different here.
We have up to 94 AKI (which is 98 RON)

[steveinjapan]

Regular in Japan is RON 89 or 90. My stock Beat runs fine and never pings even at low rpm. Maybe I'll treat it to Premium next time and see if the exhaust smells like money.

[TADO]

hi maiku
ive seen those chips on yahoo before but was a bit baffled by the different types. do you have a rough idea of the differences between them?

[maiku]

The numbers like 9500, 9800 state the rpm limit.
I'm not really sure if it's a rev limit, or just a fuel cut limit or tune limit.
I haven't tried going above my 10,000 rpm tune to see what it's like.
They did mention that for this 10K tune, the engine needs to be sufficiently able to handle it.

The NMA i think means normal model (stock engine i suppose)
NSP is the "sports" model

It ships in a padded envelop which has the main chip, an accompanying toshiba chip, and a "switch" so that you can change between the stock and chipped tunes.

Update:
I just drove the beat and it hit the limiter at 10,000rpm. Even with the foot down, it wouldn't let me go any higher.

[maiku]

Here's some pics of the upgraded brakes.
The rear civic calipers don't work because of the handbrake won't mount correctly.
Right now it's using the existing beat caliper, but with larger brackets to fit the 10.2" rear discs. You can see it fills the whole 14" rim. Had to shave the pads down as there wasn't enough clearance. I'll look into getting the civic handbrake working with the beat.
For now this setup works very nicely and it stops hard enough that I can get dizzy

[maiku]

someone front-ended be with their tow bar :awwww:

[LawrenceHarding]

Snap!!!
Last Monday.
May not look much but pushed the bonnet catch area back and cracked the base of the screen. Just had the estimate £3800.

[maiku]

Looks like it wasn't a good week for Yellow Beats

My front body frame seemed to take a formidable hit.
Estimates to be over $3000...

On the upside, my bodykit and hardtop came in along with the interior parts.
Hopefully the body shop will get it done quickly.

[LawrenceHarding]

Parts arrived last Friday, delivered to bodyshop this am (Tuesday).

[maiku]

they couldn't salvage the existing parts?
my body shop could bend the parts back into place.
its not perfectly aligned, but pretty dang close. and it was a lot faster than waiting for parts

[LawrenceHarding]

The bonnet took most of the hit and is too distorted. It was pushed back far enough to bend the wiper mounts and crack the bottom of the screen. The bonnet catch had been pushed back an inch or two as well.

[maiku]

I know in yahoo auctions there were quite a few carbon fiber/FRP hoods that would work nicely.
Also good time to get a bumper.

Here's a pic of the car before I changed to winter tires last year.
Good as new.

[Beatman]

Pretty sure Japan has 100 RON, in New Zealand we only have 98 RON which is a concern because I wish to do the same as you and fit high compression pistons. Very nice by the way.

What was the compression ratio listed for the pistons you used? Did you have your engine cc-ed? Quite often with these aftermarket pistons they expect you to machine the tops to give the exact ratio you are after. You may have ended up with a crazy 12:1 ratio?

I would like to think a 11.5 ratio should be achievable on this engine on premium gas.

As far as 10,000 rpm goes very cool! But I don't know that you will gain much power (or any) from the extra 2000 RPM as your cam is still standard right? I would imagine the standard cam would be out of its effective operating zone by then?

If we ever needed a VTEC now would be the time, tiny engine, huge RPM range to cover!

[maiku]

I'm still on standard cam, so i don't think there's any additional power at 10k.
and the oversized pistons are only 0.5mm or so, maybe a few hp gain. nothing massive. the advantage is being able to shift at 10,000 and being around 8,000 rpm in the next gear. and it's louder = more power :D

I think i read it was around 11.5:1 compression. our RON rating in north america isn't very high, so my mech had to adjust the timing pretty conservatively. it still pings on low rev at some points.

[Beatman]

High compression usually brings better response, but as the Beat engine is already multi throttle you might not notice it. You will no doubt feel a slight power gain throughout the rev range though.

I guess a custom tuned aftermarket stand alone comp might be able to compensate for it by just running a bit richer at that point in the rev range?

Thats what it sounds like, you are running a bit lean at that point and the cylinders are combusting at the wrong times on their own terms?

Hondas ignitions are known to have a bit of a lull in power output around the low/mid rev range which might be useful to know also. I will be fitting an aftermarket ignition when my pistons go in, help punch through the high compression A/R mixture. Might pay to do the same, you can't drive a pinging car.
Definitely going to get my pistons/valves ceramic coated after hearing this. Probably going to be worse for me, no cat which is already supposed to cause your car to run lean.
Looks like I will be installing an A/R meter!

[maiku]

Yes, I have plans on getting an engine management system in place to make the fuel curve better.
and the issue isn't with the pistons, it's with the piston rings
that's why it needed a rebuild.
but as long as I make sure the oil level is good, engine should last for quite a while