Clutch adjust...

[unclejemima]

Because the clutch is hydraulic, can it be adjusted?

My pedal has a good amount of play in the first 1/4 of travel. I'd like to adjust it so it is actually doing something in the first 1/4 of the clutch pedal travel.

I looked and there is a electronic clutch switch that appears to be adjustable, but i'm not to sure if this would help...?

Thanks kindly!

[bigB]

Try bleeding it. You might have some air in the lines. http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/archive/index.php/t-58.html

[Steve_M]

This is the only adjustment on the clutch.

Pedal height set up.

Any other issues with clutch are either due to Hydralic/clutch plate problems.

In your first 1/4 travel of the pedal does the slave cylinder move?? No?? system needs bleeding/leaking past seals.

Electronic clutch switch??? I dont think so :confused:

[unclejemima]

Electronic clutch switch??? I dont think so :confused:

It may be something they added for the Canadian safety inspection. If the clutch is not depressed, the car will not start. I am assuming this is the only job of the switch. I will take a picture of it tonight and post it.

Thanks for the info!

[bigB]

Possibly similar situ like old'uns? """i think the pivot pin on pedal box is out of round, turned & took all the play out again?""" Some say that the master/slave seals are the same as inexpensive N/A civic parts
http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=2929
hope you sort it out...... b...:)

[unclejemima]

cool, thanks for the info bigB.

Steve_M, check attached image. Pretty bad photo, but I think you can see it. Is this a stock item?

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn123/cornflakejoe/clutchswitch.jpg

Thanks!

[Steve_M]

cool, thanks for the info bigB.

Steve_M, check attached image. Pretty bad photo, but I think you can see it. Is this a stock item?

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn123/cornflakejoe/clutchswitch.jpg

Thanks!


As my diagram shows there should be a Pedal stop bolt there and not a switch. So yes has been added. That may mean your clutch pedal adjustment is out due to that switch being fittend and not adjusted correctly.

You should still be able to adjust the switch so the body of it acts like the pedal stop screw (some newer model have a switch there for Cruise control)

HTH

[Steve_M]

Some say that the master/slave seals are the same as inexpensive N/A civic parts


The master cylinder and slave cylinder complete units are Beat Specific parts.

Internals are used in other models, but they are not cheap on there own. and no repair kits available.

[unclejemima]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Steve, how in the heck do you get at lock nut "B"? I can not seem to get at it. Do i need to disassemble some of the clutch pedal (remove the spring, ext.) or am I just not good at this?

Thanks!

[Steve_M]

Not having actually done this myself, and also not having a Beat to try it on, That I can not say.

You can see it in your picture so can you not get access with an open ended spanner??

[unclejemima]

Ok, it is virtually impossible to reach...until you remove the clutch pedal spring! It takes 2 seconds to remove, and then access is easier. To loosen bolt "B" requires you to talk off you shoes, and get your head under the dash with your feet over the seat. This is defiantly not a comfortable job.
So I got 'er figured!
Take care,

[marcair]

What a pain in the a%$#.
The nut is a 12mm. I clamped vice grips on the shaft near the jam nut and with the 12mm wrench, fought to loosen the nut (do not scar the shaft area that passes thru the rubber boot). Again, what a pain, all afternoon. Be advised that all this will do is change the clock position of engangement.

[marcair]

pic from the auction:
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b103754245

[unclejemima]

What a pain in the a%$#. Again, what a pain.

Amen! It is not very fun. I think the best position again is to get your head under the dash with your feet up on the seat. Once I was in the position, it was much easier to work on. It actually only took about 5 minutes start to finish ONCE i was in this position. I spent about 2 hours before that trying to adjust it from just the side of the car.

I must be honest, I think it helped for me, because the clutch pedal now has a longer stroke (I think).

marcair, did you remove the clutch pedal spring to reach the bolt "b"?

[marcair]

no, considered. I bent the lower half of a 12mm wrench to 'bout 30 degrees aft to clear any obstruction

[marcair]

Does anyone know what is the diameter of the piston? Either from print or actual measurements. Greatly appreciated.

Anyone know what is the loading of the original front and rear struts?

[bigB]

Mine says 5/8 on the side of it like this one. Check yours out. Same bore as a '90 NA accord:)
Sorry, don't know the strut loadings.

[marcair]

thanks for the data. at first, I was skeptic that a reference to 5/8 on a Japan domestic (metric) unit signified a measurement. further though, fail to understand and so will find out in a few weeks when I disassemble the unit and measure same.

i need to reduce the diameter of the piston because I have a narrow window of engagement because of the small slave in the busa clutch sys. I will procure a new master assy. I just hoped I could accurately identify the current dia so I could pre-order a smaller dia and not wait for arrival.

scary is that due to the narrow clutch window and hp, I can 'pop a wheelie' if not paying attention. recent engine work raised the whp to 196.

[bigB]

USA Rock Auto Parts list their Honda rebuild kits as 5/8 bore as well... or..can you fab up something to use the original Busa master cyl?

[unclejemima]

...recent engine work raised the whp to 196.

:D:D:eek: wow!