Leaking oil...simple fix?

[unclejemima]

As some of you might recall, I had my timing belt, waterpump, dizzy and such changed by a mechanic a month or so ago. All went well, but I had the smell of burning oil/smoke and such coming from the engine bay. The mechanic told me it was probably just coolant/oil that had leaked onto the exhaust from doing the work and not to worry as it would go away.

Well, about 2 weeks later, it still burns oil, now a good amount. Literally a billow of smoke from the engine bay when I open it. I could not see where the oil was coming from, but finally found it last night. (see picture... http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn123/cornflakejoe/leaking.jpg )

Anyway, I can only see it from underneath the car, but it appears where the valve cover and the head meet, it is just leaking a tiny amount onto the exhaust manifold. That is all it takes to make it smell like burning oil.

Am I right in assuming that the valve cover is just not properly sealed? The car did not burn oil before, so I'm assuming the only engine part near where it is leaking from they would have been from removing the valve cover. Do any other parts like this have to be removed when preforming the timing belt/dizzy and such or just the valve cover?

Is this something that I can fix myself? It appears that I just remove the spark plugs and the 4 bolts that hold on the valve cover. Is it hard to remove the valve cover? Does this make sense that this is what could be causing my problem?

Thanks kindly, and sorry for the long post!

[TADO]

first time i had the cambelt changed / big service on ours there was a tiny oil leak onto the exhaust and the stink was terrible - i fully sympathise with you! it took a while to go away as well once the leak had been fixed. hopefully it'll just be a simple and quick to sort out. think ours was from the cover seal as well.

[LEE.W.]

Sounds like the rocker cover rubber gasket was not replaced correctly and has kinked which is leading to your oil leak.Make sure a new one was fitted and if so fitted properley.Also torque down those 4 bolts evenly that hold the rocker cover on.All easily do-able for a novice with a few correct tools.:)

[unclejemima]

Thanks LEE.W. and thanks Tado for the sympathy! The smell is horrible with the top up because the engine bay is in the cab! I can not wait to get this fixed!

I will give it a shot on Sunday, does not sound to hard. Thanks for the encouragement!

Does anyone know the torque spec's for the valve cover bolts?

Take care all, and I'll update on Sunday afternoon!

[unclejemima]

Well, I think I may have fixed it, but not really to sure until I take it for a longer drive. It still smells like burning oil, but now its not billowing out the back...BUT if I reach my hand down by the exhaust manifold, it's still damp from oil (kind of just sweating oil)
The valve cover gasket seal was in A-1 shape (it was brand new) and the mating surface seemed nice and clean. I tightened the cover down evenly and good.

I'm going to take it for a long drive this afternoon and see, but I think the problem is still there, though perhaps less...any idea what else it could be?

Thanks all!

[unclejemima]

I checked the bolts for the valve cover again and they are odd bolts indeed. The front ones are very small and the back ones are very long. The back ones are very weird to tighten because the have a small thread and rubber washer, so you don't really know if it's tight or not! I think I may have tightened the back ones a little much and may have stripped it!!!! Hopefully I'm just being paranoid!
On a plus not, I was able to tighten the front ones a little more and i think my leaking problem is solved...still going to go for a longer ride tonight to find out for sure.

[Steve_M]

The long bolts are very easy to snap off, so dont over tighen them.

Torque is 10Nm

[unclejemima]

The long bolts are very easy to snap off, so dont over tighen them.

Torque is 10Nm

Thanks for the advice! I'll take it easy on them.

I'm still having a problem with the seal leaking just a tiny bit, and I've heard that I should use a dab of silicone at the 8 cam cap corners; 4 points on the timing belt side, and 4 on the distributor side.

I have ordered another valve cover gasket just to be sure, but I'm not to sure if it is recommended to use any liquid gasket to aid in the sealing or if it is just fine without? What is your opinion Steve?

Thanks!

[Steve_M]

You should use some silicon on the corners at each end of the camshaft.

Shown in picture by the red areas.

[unclejemima]

You should use some silicon on the corners at each end of the camshaft.

Shown in picture by the red areas.

Hot Dog! That's perfect and should solve my problem! Thanks!
-mark

[unclejemima]

You should use some silicon on the corners at each end of the camshaft..

Any special type of silicone? High heat I'm assuming, or should I be using a special type of liquid gasket?
Thanks!

[Steve_M]

Any Automotive RTV type sealer.

Honda part number is 08C70-K02-34M if you want the genuine thing.

Otherwise some thing like Wurth RTV will be ok.

[LEE.W.]

In my experiance with engine rebuilds if your gasket is on and seated properly and correctly torqued down it should not leak.Try the silicon but if this does not work just make sure the plastic filler cap on rocker cover has not got a hairline crack in it. Just a thought:)

[unclejemima]

In my experiance with engine rebuilds if your gasket is on and seated properly and correctly torqued down it should not leak.Try the silicon but if this does not work just make sure the plastic filler cap on rocker cover has not got a hairline crack in it. Just a thought:)

Sounds good! Thanks! I shall soon find out as I'm going to give it a shot this weekend hopefully.

[unclejemima]

Torque is 10Nm

should I use blue lock tight?

[Steve_M]

No, No need for loctite on an Ally engine, you can end up ripping threads out using it, when it come to dismantle.

[unclejemima]

No, No need for loctite on an Ally engine, you can end up ripping threads out using it, when it come to dismantle.

Good to know!
Thanks!

[unclejemima]

You should use some silicon on the corners at each end of the camshaft.

Shown in picture by the red areas.

Sorry, I just finally ALL my parts in today (I was missing 1 bolt!)

Should I put the gasket maker on the valve cover, or on the cylinder head?

I'm assuming to put the OEM rubber gasket onto the valve cover, apply some of the silicone to the valve cover (over-top of the rubber gasket) at the cam corners and then mount the valve cover to the cylinder head and tighten my bolts to spec.
(I'm assuming this is correct vs. applying the silicone to the cylinder head as it is near impossible to see what goes on by the exhaust manifold so it would just make a big mess!)

While i'm at it, what about the spark plug gasket in the cylinder head? Should I put some RTV in the hole first before installing the new spark plug gaskets or is it fine without?

Thanks!

[unclejemima]

Ok, I've changed the valve cover gasket and used some rtv on the cam corners. Seems to have cured the leaking as the valve cover appears to be bone dry after 2 weeks, but I still have that nagging smell of burning oil after a 5-10minute drive...How long will it take to go away? There is no more smoke, just the smell of burning oil off an exhaust pipe when I park the car, but it is VERY annoying!

Is there anywhere else it could be leaking from in regards to doing a timing belt/waterpump/alternator swap? What other engine part would have been removed from doing such a job that could be leaking now...?

The car did NOT smell like burning oil before the work was performed.

Thanks kindly for any advice!

[bigB]

Spray everything down with a can of Brakeclean to dissolve off any existing residue.