Solution to the 3000-4000 RPM Rattle?

[Midship]

When I carried out the rebuild a couple of years back I replaced the clutch release baring, pressure plate and clutch disc, which thankfully stopped the annoying rattle for a couple thousand miles.. unfortunately it came back.

Ive just removed the gearbox for a full overhaul.. new syncros and (after selling an arm) an LSD! but have decided to give another- non Honda clutch a go which was sourced on yahoo (Thanks OZ!).

The clutch disc I just removed for the car (which only has 20k on it) has lose inner internal springs. The new disc that's in the pic doesn't have these inner internal springs so im hoping the new non Honda clutch will sort the problem! Ill report back after a couple of thousand Km!

Can anyone recommend a good LSD oil? or would genuine Honda stuff be up to the job?

[Midship]

.

[Komyo]

Hi,

I have another strange problem with the gearbox. When the engine is cold it does not go well into 3rd and 4th gear. When the engine is warmed up it goes better, but then if you rev the engine up above 6K it starts brushing teeth again no matter how gently I shift. Any idea what could be wrong? I checked with Honda and found complete gearboxes are now discontinued .........

Thanks for any reply.

Mike
(the only registered beat in Holland)

[Adam]

I found that the rattle came from a bearing in the fly wheel.

Its around €8 and you can get it from:


Rotate Ltd
136c Slaney cl
Dublin Ind Est 11 Dublin

Parts manual page 48 number 5.

and Komyo have you checked the oil level in your gearbox. I would start with that.

Hope this helps

[Komyo]

Hi, Thanks for the reply. There is only one dipstick as far as I can tell, or is there another place to check / refill oil for the gearbox.?:eek:

[Adam]

There is no dipstick for gearbox oil. You got to have the car level and undo one of 2 bolts on the gearbox. Thats the level it should be at. I'll post a pic.

[Komyo]

Many thanks for that, it could indeed be the problem as I was not aware of this.
Many many thanks!!!!!:)

[Adam]

You should fill it from the top hole, once it starts to overflow then you know its fine

[Komyo]

Many many thanks!!! I will try it today and see if it helps!!! I will post back a reply. Thanks again!!!!!:)

[Komyo]

Ah..... What oil should i use??

[Adam]

Engine oil 10W/40 semi-synthetic or synthetic.

Its not easy to get there so you might need a small bottle with a tube on the end, or a long funnel

Good luck

[Komyo]

Many thanks, I will take it to the quick fit tomorrow and let them sort it. I will let you know how it works out!!!

Many thanks!

Mike

[Adam]

I would also check the clutch fluid at the front of the car. Under the bonnet there is two reservoirs with grey caps. One is the brake fluid and the other is clutch fluid.

I had a little fluid there and had simular problems. Air got in the line and the cluch was really bad. So I got crunching between gears.

You need a pic let me know.

[Komyo]

Many thanks, I will have it checked, I am sure that reservoir is obvious to find. Fingers crossed!!!

Btw, If I can help you with any genuine parts let me know, my company imports Honda.

If you wonder..... The Japanese Home market stuff is not supported by Honda, so that's why I am asking all these q's The shopmanual I have is in Japanese. Is there one available in English?

Mike:eek:

[Adam]

Thanks for the offer. Its quite common for either the slave and master clutch cylinder to leak at some stage. This would explain your problem.

Here is that pic:

[Komyo]

Thanks a million for your effort. Will check all out first thing tomorrow!!!!

Cheers,

Mike

[Komyo]

Hi,

Well, I did what you said to do and it is 90% better!!! thanks a million. The only but is that I have to replace some rings in the gearbox between 2/3 and 3/4 But that will be a nice job for the winter.

I have 2 more questions really, and hopefully you have an answer. After a while my engine check light pops on, and I am very sure there is nothing more to check, is that a typical Honda beat glitch?
(it has been like this for 5 years now)

The other question is, would you know where to get progressive shocks for the Honda beat.

Cheers,

Mike

[Midship]

I seem to have missed this thread over the last day or two..

First of all those pics are quite helpful to someone looking to change their gear oil, perhaps this could be a "how to"?

A few pointers though.. under NO Circumstance is 10w-40 & (especially semi synthetic) the right oil to use, im convinced its the reason why ive gone through one gearbox and had to change the syncros on my new one, here's an interesting link:

http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1635&highlight=gear

The quote in that thread (I think I took it from honda-tech.com) seems to sum up the feeling on most Honda enthusiast web sites about this. In my opinion Honda or Acura MTF which can be bought on ebay is only stuff to use and isnt expensive.

Also I agree the little baring is important to replace, but I dont accept this is the cause behind the rattle. The reasoning behind this assumption is that, I replace that baring, the clutch and pressure plate when I rebuilt (24K ago) the rattle went away for a while, but it came back.

This time I replaced what you see in the picture but DIDNT touch that little baring. But now there absolutely no rattle at all, so it must have been something I changed. Furthermore the clutch I removed must of had loose springs because when I gave it a shake I could here them rattling inside the casing. So thats how I came to the conclusion that this was the problem.

Coincidently, I have a Honda Today clutch here which seems to be exactly the same as the Beats clutch in everyway. Perhaps Honda used the Todays clutch on the Beat... This would mean that the clutch is designed for a lower reving car and would explain why most of us have this rattle? I have no evidence to back this up other than the fact they look the same, but it would explain things.

[Midship]

Hi Komyo,

It sound like you need to take an ECU reading to see what the problem is, do a search and there's loadsa pictures on how to do it.

As for the shocks, its a modification which I would definitely do. Ive KYB gas shocks and RSR progressive ti springs. The best way to get them is from a contact in japan as parts suppliers for this sort of stuff are very hard to come by... under no circumstance would I advise fitting lowering spring on standard shocks or cutting your original springs this will lead to a very uncomfortable ride.

I can definitely recommend the KYB/RSR set up, it lowers the car a bit, greatly improves handling and and is comfortable for day to day driving e.g over the odd speed bump etc... oh and KYB and RSR are brands that are available in Europe so you might be able to order them locally...

HTH

[Komyo]

Hi,

Many thanks for your replies. I know KYB as we import performance parts for Monkey bikes from Japan. I will ask our suppliers for these shocks. Directly from Japan saves $$$$$$

As for reading the ecu, Our local Honda dealer did not want to do it, so how can I go and do it myself?

Cheers,
Mike

[Adam]

Originally posted by Komyo


As for reading the ecu, Our local Honda dealer did not want to do it, so how can I go and do it myself?

Cheers,
Mike

Do what is says here to read the codes:

http://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1448&highlight=connector

[Komyo]

Hi,

Cheers for that!!

Mike

[Komyo]

Hi Guru,

I have talked to my Jap parts supplier and he claims the following:

Progressive Shock-Spring for Honda: BEAT
We could not find KYB (Kayaba) products. Following is the price based on the
other reliable brand:

"TANABE" GF120 Progressive Shock-Spring for Honda: BEAT = Yen 23,000
Note:
a) Lower weight material
b) 20-30% increased spring ratio
c) 30 to 40 mm low down setting position

However, you mention there are indeed KYB shocks available for the beat. Would you or anyone have a part number for those?

Thanks a lot!!!

Mike