View Full Version : Air Con Problems.......help I'm Sweltering......
nalobcram
08-08-2005, 05:58 PM
Can anyone advise me please.....
my Air con isn't working..... well i'm not sure if its working or not ~ put it that way..... i use to heard the "thunk" when i pressed the a/c button, and the rev counter decreased, but now NOTHING happens and i'm not getting cold!!!...
i was wondering if it might be a fuse??? if so any ideas where in the fuse box i might look??? or might the system need re-gassing??? would this cause the "thunk" to stop????? any help would be GRATEFULLY recieved......
your swelteringly NALOBCRAM.
Paul w
08-08-2005, 07:07 PM
Hi
You could take the roof down....!
I seem to remember that the fuse powers something else as well...interior light?
PW
(how are XER-T doing?)
adrianp
08-08-2005, 08:19 PM
I'd guess that it needs re-gassing...
The system probably still has enough gas in it to allow the compressor to kick in but not enough to cool the air properly.
The system uses the same fuse as the radiator cooling fan so if the temp gauge is still reading normal then I'd guess that it's not the fuse.
Hope this helps
Ady.
barkley
08-08-2005, 09:15 PM
check the belt is still on the air con pump
Wh1teLeopard
08-08-2005, 10:14 PM
My air con has never worked, or made any noises... do I need to re gas mine too?
ozsamurai
09-08-2005, 01:44 AM
Checxking the AC gas would be the first step I think. Open up the bonnet (hood) and facing the car I think on the right hand side you will see a square junction box with a clear window (wipe it it is clear) in the AC piping. The piping is along the back wall (silver) easy to find, just track though till you find the little square box. When the AC is ON, this window should be white and flowing with what looks like foam. If it isn't ie you can't see the liquid, you need a top up. Originally R12 was the ticket, but R134 can be substituted now. The clunk you mentioned though does sound more like a belt issue, I would have a look at it as well. If the liquid is OK, and the belt is fine, then most likely the AC compressor is shot in which case, I believe you'll have to get a re-build done or buy a new one. Hope this helps
Cheers
Oz
Wh1teLeopard
09-08-2005, 01:58 AM
Thank you oz, will have a look at mine tomorrow.
nalobcram
10-08-2005, 06:19 PM
well, thanks everyone for your advice,....
I've checked all the fuses in the fusebox, everything seems fine, I've looked at the belt and that seems to be fine, and I've checked the lens on the A/C piping.... that seems a bit confusing, depending on how i look at it i can see white, and also black.... but nothing moving.....
If it needs re-gassing, would that account for the A/C not clicking in????? (i suppose if theres nothing to go around the tubes, then theres no pressure to "thunk"?????)
Has anyone had there A/C regassed?? and any idea of cost?????
Would the guy that does the re-gassing be able to tell if there was a leak in the piping???? am i right in thinking that the A/C pipes run under the car??? i'm just wondering if i've hit something in the road (traffic calming humps) or if rust is to blame?????
i hope this weather doesn't keep up......
:explode:
barkley
10-08-2005, 06:30 PM
£30 for dye test to check if it leaks £25 to regas depending where you go
ozsamurai
10-08-2005, 06:43 PM
If the AC refrigerant is full it will definately be white and very visible at the window. An A/C fluid leak check would always be advised though before a re-gas, most likelt the culprit will be the very front pipe, closest to the front bumper, specifically the joint at where it goes into the observation window, it tends to get bashed or rather leaned on by the spare tire (tyre). I'm sure any shop that does AC recharging would be able to check it out if you think that is a fator, but if you haven't had it gased for a few years then I think you may just be able to put it down to wear.. I would remove the spare, remove the spare base plate and then have a look for obvious signs first though it not a major job and always pays to do a spring clean around there anyway..Hmmm
Oz
Wh1teLeopard
11-08-2005, 12:36 AM
Mine was as dry as a whistle... as they say... the boyfriend said he can re gas mine at work if he calls in a favour with the guy who does it... he just wants to know what it takes. He said it should be in Kg... does anyone know?
tinytim
11-08-2005, 07:38 PM
It would have taken R12 but that's a big no no now. Oz mentioned R134. Oz are you sure it's 134 and not 134A. If folks start putting in the wrong gas it will perrish the seals in no time at all.
For a check all diagnostic. Start up, press the A/C switch and check the LED comes on.
If you don't get the clunk and revs drop then the A/C compressor clutch is not cutting in.
Go to the front of the car an just behind the right hand grill slots you will see the bottom of the viewing window Oz pointed out. This is also the presure switch and has a lead comming off it. Disconnect it and short out the lead connection.
This should give you the clunk and rev drop and you should also hear the cooling vent fan for the A/C cut in. If this happens then the chances are you simply need a top up.
If nothing happens then you have a bigger problem
:(
There is of course no guarantee that you haven't got a leak but you will need an A/C mech to check this out. Most of them will check for leaks before topping up but make sure you ask.
REMEMBER
A/C is for life not just for summer. You must use your A/C all year round to maintain the seals or the gas will simply leak away. If you need a reason to use the A/C on a cold Nov morning - Don't forget that air that's been through the A/C is dry and will demist the car much quicker than waiting for the engine to warm up:D
Steve_M
11-08-2005, 10:42 PM
System holds 650 grams of Refrigerant. (R12 equivallant)
HTH
nalobcram
15-08-2005, 03:29 PM
Many thanks TINYTIM,.... Thats the kind of advice i really needed!!! i've check it out now..... i've shorted the pressure switch, and i now get a "THUNK" when the A/C button is pressed, i haven't heard the A/C FAN cut in thou, mainly because the engine and heater fan are running..... SO.... Hopefully it just needs a re-gassing.....
SO!!!... it was R12, and now it needs R134 OR R134A?? 650 GRAMS??? is this correct???? i don't want to sound like a right pratt or a know-it-all when i go to get it done!!
MANY THANKS AGAIN TINYTIM!!!:bounce:
tinytim
15-08-2005, 08:04 PM
Just let the guy/gal know it was an R12 system. If there's no sticker to say it's already been converted to R134a then they should purge the system anyway (You don't want a mixture in there.)
If they offer you something else my advice would be to refuse and go for 134a. http://www.motronics.co.uk/air_conditioner.htm
nalobcram
15-08-2005, 09:42 PM
Having taken advice, i phoned around several A/C specialists.... most can't help at all..... but i found quite a helpful one locally.... unfortunatly he tells me my car will need converting,(by this i think he means the INLET valves in the A/C system) he also says i will need a new RECIEVER~DRYER???? Does anyone have any info on the whereabouts of this???? he hasn't come up with a price yet for the re-gasing, but by the sound of this it won't be cheap......:confused:
why isn't life simple anymore???????:(
adrianp
15-08-2005, 10:03 PM
Mine was converted and didn't have any new bits fitted... (Don't think so anyway...)
But I'm sure mine needs another recharge as it's not as cold as it used to be when I had it done a couple of years ago.
As far as I can remember, when they did mine, they just evacuated the system and added a special oil along with the new gas to make sure the seals stayed lubricated properly.
Hope this helps
Ady.
Steve_M
15-08-2005, 10:46 PM
Originally posted by nalobcram
he also says i will need a new RECIEVER~DRYER???? Does anyone have any info on the whereabouts of this???? he hasn't come up with a price yet for the re-gasing, but by the sound of this it won't be cheap......:confused:
£105 for original receiver dryer or £192 for a later R134a one.
located just behind the front bumper under bonnet.
HTH
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