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owensexport
19-06-2005, 01:03 AM
I just got my new ECU chip via Japan (Arigato Oz!!).
I figured I would look more into the 7100 rpm problem before
I went ahead and installed it.
Today I changed the distributor with a brand new unit
I had on the shelf... No change.
I did notice the condensor that is attached to the ground
on the distributor body has the wire almost broken off but I
dont think that would affect the rpm.

Anyone else got any results?
I figure I might change the coil next.....

ozsamurai
05-07-2005, 10:24 AM
I really would love to have an answer for this one too, I have run it by Honda Techs after Adrian, Jason etc. had the same problem.... the best they could come up with was it was related to air flow restriction perhaps... morons! anyway good luck, ask Adrian what he has already painstakingly troubleshot and maybe pick up from there.

Oz

Midship
05-07-2005, 11:25 AM
I currently have a silver beat... the timing belt broke and so im putting it right..

Last week I finished the project; everything was running sweet brought it for a drive and about half an hour into the drive the timing belt decided to squeak.. like it was about to break.

I decided to check the distributor so I removed it and swapped in a perfectly good one and then noticed the 7000 rpm limit which has been talked about on the site. The car did not have this prior to the dizzy swap. The only other thing I done in that time frame is disconnect and reconnect the 2 main connectors for the head.

Ill have a definite answer on this one shortly once it stops raining, im going to put the old dizzy back in and see if it will go to 9000 rpm.

The squeaking turned out to be them dam rollers on the belt, luckily enough I caught them in time and changed them….one was totally sizing when driving!.

Out of interest Adrian is there a little black wire connected to the dizzy? Is the yellow/black wire connected on the coil?

Im thinking that there could be a compatibility issue with newer dizzy`s? as this one was fine when it old one was in but started playing up when the new one went in.

The end of the 7000RPM limit problem… could be near
:D

Paul w
05-07-2005, 05:36 PM
I've got a spare dizzy if anyone needs it to try?!

PW

adrianp
05-07-2005, 07:21 PM
Hi Guys.

So far on mine (1992 J reg), we have changed...

New Distributor Assy.
New Plugs
New Plug Leads
New Air Filter
New Fuel Filter
New Cylinder Position Sensor (But it did cure an engine fault code...)
Swapped ECU with a known working one
Project A chip tried, (Which should remove rev limiter on car but didn't)

So Now I think it's either a sensor fault or a wiring fault...

Wiring sound possible as my engine was re-built before I bought the car and if yours has now developed it Midship then it's quite possible that, due to the age of the car and components, something broke whilst the work was being done.

There's a few pints in it for you if you cure yours and it works on mine too :bounce:

Ady.

Midship
06-07-2005, 12:03 AM
The thing about it was- I finished all the work... rebuilt head etc etc started it, (revved it) right up to 9000 rpm

Then I heard the squeak, changed the dizzy and disconnected the two connectors and drove it and I was limited to 7000 rpm! So it happened in that 15 min time frame

Ill inspect further 2marro
:bounce:

tinytim
07-07-2005, 06:51 PM
If I remember correctly wern't we at the point of needing to swap the throttle position sensor?

I can't see how this falls in with Midships case unless it's pure coincidence. If anyone want's to try it I've got a throttle housing complete with injectors and inlet manifold.

ozsamurai
08-07-2005, 02:30 AM
Just a thought, on the dizzy it is model specific and there is a pre and post countermeasured part as well....

Early models (Mar 91 up) VIN break PP1-1006025638 should have
part # 300100-P36-006

Later Models (Dec 1994 Up) VIN break PP1-1106025639 up should have
part # 30100-P36-016

Not entirely compatible, just have a check and see if the dizzy you swapped out was compatible...

Oz

owensexport
08-07-2005, 04:47 AM
My vin is 1005296
I installed a -016
Looked exactly the same as what was in the engine already.
Old unit was not that bad and appears to have been changed
sometime before....
When I ordered the -006, my friend told me that the
P/N had updated to -016....

ozsamurai
08-07-2005, 05:19 AM
Hmm that's interesting, wonder if Adrian has the same cross match, how about Midship? It definitively says in the parts catalog that they aren't compatible between the 006 & 016. We may be barking up the wrong tree but it's worth getting a cross check going...

Oz

chs74
08-07-2005, 11:34 AM
Hi all,

i followed the discussion about the rpm-problem very interested.

I have a question: Is only the fifth gear limited with 7.100 rpm or every gear ?

greetings from germany

Christian

adrianp
08-07-2005, 07:48 PM
Yep, rpm limit is in every gear, at leased it is on mine anyway...:rolleyes:

As for the distributor, I can't find the paperwork from when I bought my new one at the moment but I do know it was to replace an early batch code one and the problem was happening before it was changed also...

Is the part number on the distributor anywhere?? I've still got the old one in a box on the shelf as it still worked fine (as such) when it was changed.

Ady.

chs74
08-07-2005, 10:21 PM
hi again,

with Michael and some other friends our companionship owns 8 Honda Beat. Most of them (yellow, silver and red ones) were build in 1991/1992 only my Beat is a green Version F. We all installed the speed limit defencer. Every car goes up to 9000-9500 rpm. It is nearly 170 km/h
My Version F goes from the first till the fourth gear up to 9.000-9500 rpm. Only the fifth gear stops about 8200 rpm (145 km/h) I know that my distributor were changed by Phil Ballinger. But i dont know which version it is. I will contact Phil and ask him about the distributor.
Michael and me are going to test the distributor from his red Beat.
If we get any results - i`ll be back.

christian

Midship
09-07-2005, 12:56 AM
Switched back to the old (original) dizzy earlier.. have to get a lend of a timing light tomorrow just to make sure everything is ok before i test her out on the motorway and we may well have an answer

The newer one I had installed (when the rev limit was present) was recently purchased however I am unsure of either dizzies part codes. All I know is one is the original and one is almost brand new

Thinking back I disconnected and reconnected the two main connectors for the head with the battery connected- perhaps that fried a sensor, or upset something...

Only time will tell
:bounce:

Midship
09-07-2005, 11:49 PM
Ok so-changed the dizzy back and heres the deal….. when I drive im limited somewhere around the 7500rpm mark. However when the engine is stationary it revs all the way past 8500rpm.

So it turns out that the new dizzy and the connector change probably had nothing to do with the fault developing, since when I originally tested the engine it was stationary it revved up past 8000 rpm and I thought things were ok. I switched the dizzies and actually drove the car and noticed the limit at about 7500 rpm. So the fault was probably always present.

So I then decided to switch over a few things from my own beat which is perfect…
The following were the handiest to change but didn’t solve my problem:

The Coil
The Map Sensor
The HT leads
Earthing Straps
The black wire that runs form the coil to the dizzy

There are 3 sensors I noticed that I didn’t change the first one Is the one on the top of the throttle body- it seems t have coolant running through it and didn’t have the gaskets so I didn’t switch them. The second is a sensor on the intake for CLY1 the two screws holding it in were quite rusty and I couldn’t get them out without going happy with a dremmel. And finally the throttle position sensor (I think) which we decided on been a possible cause but the fecking thing is held in by strange anti-tamper screws.

I will try and switch over these sensors next week if I get a chance

Out of interest Adrian is your limit problem a constant 7100 regardless of whether you’re stationary or driving? Just to make sure we have exactly the same problem?

Mine could still be cause buy a simple timing error.. which ill also try and eleminate next week when i get my hands on a timing light

The search goes on……

owensexport
10-07-2005, 03:00 AM
Installed my Project A chip today.
Seems to run better but still stuck to under 7100 rpm under
load or in neutral.

Will take her on the highway next week and see if it
is any faster with the chip!!

tinytim
10-07-2005, 03:06 AM
midship,
Just a quick word on the throttle position sensor. I'm sure Seve mentioned that it is only available as part of the throttle body and is factory set. I would advise against removing it but rather change the throttle body.
Having toyed with a few transducer setups (which I assume this is) if it's not set right the signal will send a false signal to the ECU and cause all sorts of problems.

peter picard
02-09-2005, 09:24 AM
Originally posted by owensexport
I just got my new ECU chip via Japan (Arigato Oz!!).
I figured I would look more into the 7100 rpm problem before
I went ahead and installed it.
Today I changed the distributor with a brand new unit
I had on the shelf... No change.
I did notice the condensor that is attached to the ground
on the distributor body has the wire almost broken off but I
dont think that would affect the rpm.

Anyone else got any results?
I figure I might change the coil next.....
just wondered i was reading some old posts of yours .did u ever get the echip to work properly and did u get rid of the rev limiter.if so what did the e chip do to your performance? ie 0-60 and top speed.really getting into these honda beats now so any info would be great .thanx for your time mate.

Paul w
02-09-2005, 10:20 AM
Chipping didnt help, so it points to a none electronic reason for the limit.
Chipping does however make a big difference to drivability, but i'm not sure about 0-60.

Possible just spreads the torque (a relative term in a beat!) about a bit
I love my chip though, would never remove it!

PW

chs74
02-09-2005, 11:20 AM
Hi all,

now here are the results of the german Version F Beat.
Because of the low topspeed we changed the distributor from another Beat but the engine runs awful with this quiekie sound.
We couldn´t tune the Timing right. So we installed the old one. The engine runns better, but we only get the right tuming when we turn the distributor complet to the left side. On my way home the check light get on and show 9 flashes.
So it was the cylinder no.1 position sensor. A few days later i check the valve clearance and the timing of the cam shaft. I find out that the cam shaft was rotated around a tooth. I changed the cam belt and the beat is running. 2 days ago i had a trip to Hamburg(about 300 km) so i could test it.
The engine rev´s up to the limiter at 9.200 rpm in the fifth gear.
Another phenomen: The Speedo indicates with a rotated cam shaft less

Greetings
Christian

owensexport
10-01-2007, 03:32 PM
Have not driven my Beat for a while due to busy schedules.
I just got back from Japan and seeing several Beats on my trip put
the spark back into me.

Revisiting the 7100 problem, has anyone made and progress on this
issue over the past year??

Happy 2007 to all!

LawrenceHarding
20-01-2007, 01:16 AM
My 1991 Beat has just been fitted with a new 30100-P36-016 distributor assy as the bearings in the original were getting rough (and our other Beat seized its distributor last year). Runs up to limiter around 9000rpm no probs.

owensexport
05-03-2007, 07:34 AM
just wondered i was reading some old posts of yours .did u ever get the echip to work properly and did u get rid of the rev limiter.if so what did the e chip do to your performance? ie 0-60 and top speed.really getting into these honda beats now so any info would be great .thanx for your time mate.

I have never had a problem with the chip install itself. The engine was
running good after I rebuilt it. After installation of the chip, there was
a little more power but more noticeable was the engine seemed to run
smoother.

The problem I have is when you hit 7100 RPM, the engine cuts out like
a rev limiter. This is not a speed limiter of any sort, I can get the car up
to 90 mph (scary on Los Angeles highways!).
If you floor the gas pedal when it is in neutral, it will go up to 7100 and start
to cut out.....
Very troubling....

LawrenceHarding
07-03-2007, 12:09 AM
A few back of the envelope calculations suggest that 7100 ish rpm equates to 140 kph in top gear. Is it possible that a fault in the wiring and/or ecu is leading to the engine rpm signal being read as a road speed signal and triggering the cutout?

old'uns
07-03-2007, 03:44 PM
A few back of the envelope calculations suggest that 7100 ish rpm equates to 140 kph in top gear. Is it possible that a fault in the wiring and/or ecu is leading to the engine rpm signal being read as a road speed signal and triggering the cutout?

ours cuts out in top @ 8500 or just below? 140kph on speedo.
revs to 9000 in lower gears, took me by surprise on m/way first time:eek:

DaX
07-03-2007, 05:19 PM
ours cuts out in top @ 8500 or just below? 140kph on speedo.
revs to 9000 in lower gears, took me by surprise on m/way first time:eek:

You guys are brave taking it to 140 kph! I have only graced 110. :)

On topic -

Of all the things changed has anyone considered swapping the VSS? If there is a speed limited governor, perhaps the VSS is sending out a faulty signal at or around 7100 RPM?

owensexport
09-03-2007, 07:45 AM
The VSS would make sense if it only happens when driving.
It will cut out at 7100 RPM sitting in neutral on the driveway not moving!